Alderney: Hannaine Bay and Les Etacs

Alderney: Hannaine Bay and Les Etacs in high summer.

The viewpoint is the causeway between Alderney and Fort Clonque. We are looking across Hannaine Bay. The headland to the left is called the Giffoine (highly entrenched and defended by the Germans during WW2). The rocks ahead are called Les Etacs – the white rock is one of Alderney’s two gannet colonies.

In the image below, the viewpoint is indicated by the red arrow. The tide was far higher and lapping over the causeway.

Painting the Alderney sea

In this painting, I have tried to suggest a few things. Firstly, heat: here it is the peak of summer, the sky cloudless, and the sun has turned the rocks into an oven. You can see how the scrub on the headland has been scorched brown.

By contrast, the limpid water is cool and colourful – the temptation to slip in is strong. This bay is part of Alderney’s Ramsar site, which extends northwest to include the islet of Burhou. It is a rich and diverse area, with around 100 seaweeds and considerable animal life. It is a high-energy environment (the channel between Alderney and Burhou is called the Swinge) which brings food and life. The calm state of the sea gives little sense of this.

When you look at seawater closely, you become aware of its intricacy of movement. ‘Eyes’ open and shut everywhere. Even calm seawater can thud against the rock with extraordinary force.

Alderney gannets

The distant rocks (Les Etacs) have a surreal clarity. If you were to go closer you would hear the raucous churr of breeding gannets, and see them diving with folded wings. You would probably also wrinkle your nose at the acrid stench of guano.

If you’re looking for a sea painting with lots of blues, you might like this view of Chit Rocks in Sidmouth or this one of Langstone Harbour. If swimming is your thing, try The Bather.